Right now I am trying frimware 2.40 B6 and I cannot get the yaw to respond properly. It just doesn't activeate and when it does it doesn;t do what its supposed. Iv'e tried 2.3b5 and the yaw works right. I have no clue what is going on. 2.3b5 is OK but I cannot get a stable roll it is OK but not like some of the results ive been seeing here with 2.4 b6. I get minor bumps/shakes in roll on 2.35b that I cannot manage to work out.. I can't walk very vast at all, forget about running.
I'm using an rctimer legacy with 4S. Motors are 5208 75T roll, 5208 75T pitch, 200T Yaw. I have these all set at 22 poles. My rig is balanced perfectly where I put it on rotation it stays, no fally upside down rolling to one side or the other, so not much work to push around my T4i with 11-16mm tokina
23 b5 was the closest I've come to a stable performance. anything in 2.4 has been difficult especially the latest version.
Why would version 2.4 be so difficult? I'm not getting this at all. Hwelp would be appreciated.
I changed to 2.4 and got the yaw to work by clicking on the External FC gain Auto button. Give it a try. By looking at the footage, normally we will feel the walking motion when there is no subject in your frame. I feel you should increase your P for your pitch, this should improve on some of the walking motion.
I changed from 2.3 to 2.4 and cracked my head on the tuning. From the helpful forumers here i gathered that for the lastest firmware. "I" must be very low @0.01 and "D" must be high about 30 and above. Give these values a try too.
ill try the auto gain idea though. hopefully that works. yeah i used low I settings but yaw just spun freely or accasionally got power but didn't respond to input or oscilated. is 2.4 a more stable firmware if you can get it to work?
I did some tweaking. I adjust Pitch to P-23, I - .01, D - 13, Power 180. It seemed to kill the up down movement. But now I have a rill issue. Again, I am thinking it is IMU related as everything I try does not fix it. My settings are pretty close to the same as the settings from my original post but I turned down P and D as roll started getting vibes about 2 min in of use with the settings from the screen cap earlier in thread.
Here is raw clip from new settings:
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Here I did a quick edit, color job, and cinematic crop on the same test footage. I also put some post stab on very last shot. I actually prefer the vibes in comparison but the warp look would be cool for a surreal floaty look if needed. Just put it together to see how it edits and what I need to do better with movement for an actual gig with this thing.
yup can see your up down motion became better. Its normal that we see less walking motion when we run but the roll becomes unstable and shakey. I was told by a forumer here there is more to PID then just tuning them. We have to make sure the structure of the gimbal does not introduce additional vibration and the balance of the camera have to be perfecto.
Thats why when you see the more expensive kits, their structure and fixtures are more sturdy, more firm. I am still learning.
increased D on pitch and roll. Now my question is why does the gimbal shake out of control if I go past 30 degrees on the pitch? is it not meant to go more than 30 degrees?
i read somewhere it was the nature of the alexmos board. so you can put just pitch on follow? im sure thats what I need to do. but does it effect stability in normal movement.? yeah, my yaw is perfectly balanced and when I go to far with pitch it is the roll that gets wacky not pitch or yaw.
Garug, informed me on rcgroups that his goes 360. so i have no clue, there is so much info out there about these boards, but not really enough and not organized.
what do you mean by power cycle. if you mean disconnect turn of then turn on before connectng, yes. yaw catches. but it will not engagfe right away when connected to gui. so it is difficult to tune yaw, luckily yaw is not the hardest of the 3 axis to tune.