GB85-1 is strong and really demanding for the frame stiffness. Your PID is way off for GB85-1.

What battery do you use? I would not suggest more than 4S. What camera/lens do you have? where is your IMU located?

But in any case try Power 130 (for 4S and Canon 5D sized camera ) P 20, I 0.05, D 20 and start rising P keeping D as low as possible after done rise 'I'

You could also try Gyro high sensitivity, works good for me. Here is my settings for 3xGB85-1, 5D http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=28031121&postcount=9436

And alternative way of tuning http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=28045237&postcount=9447

I am using 8 bit, but I think it is really the FW 2.4 that is relevant here.

32 BIT BOARDS THE PID seem to be different than 8 bit boards.

I tried to do, but it changed nothing. gyro high sensitivity does not work, the hole gimbal vibrates.

Do you think it is because of the hardware (Board, Gimbal, Motors) or software?

It is strange that it worked with the 8-bit board.

The new blog entry http://www.basecamelectronics.com/company/blog/show/?newsid=69 helped me to config the gimbal.
The best way to eliminate the high vibrations was to set the GYRO LPF to 2 smoothing the gyro.

Now the balance is quite good, but I have one last problem with the pitch.
The camera does not balance very smooth in Pitch Axis. It is jittering and with high focal length the stabilizing results are not good.

You will see it on the Video:


Someone an idea? Thanks!

If the camera is well balanced also in the pitch axis and the motor seems to be OK, then it's something about SimpleBGC.

Set 0 all PID/power and then set the correct power for the pitch axis. I guess you know how it's done.

Then start with the PIDs. Just set I to 0.01 at the beginning and raise P and D as it's explained in the guides until the stabilization is good enough.

Gyro high sensitivity could be worth trying, but you must consider that P and D will be in fact doubled, so a retuning would be necessary.

If nothing works, try high Gyro LPF, like 100 or something.

Comment what happens! Best regards.

Oh, sorry, I confused Gyro LPF with Gyro trust... ¬¬

Anyway, Gyro LPF works only in some cases, and it's harder to get the right PIDs.

I don't think the number of poles and board version has nothing to do, although I'm not 100% sure...

I think it could be something in the settings, or maybe something physical...

It's just a matter of patience and research, as always.

I'm also struggling to get rid of vibrations on my roll axis...

You are on the right track. Really the more solid you get it the better it is.

Also worth trying different IMU positions. On my gimbal on flash shoe was the best position until I made a gage that connected the camera both from bottom screw and flash shoe. After this modification at bottom of the camera was the best place for IMU. This is how it works now with the 8 bit board.

http://youtu.be/hV7hpWdBzhA

BTW this is Canon 5D with 24-105 4.0 F and I can use it with all the zoom range though it is balanced at 24 mm (and I have lens hood and ND filter connected.) At 105 mm it is really out of balance, but works good for stationary shots. When walking at 105 mm I get a bit similar vibrations as on your video, due it is so much out of balance (and at 105 mm all vibrations show much more clearly).

That actually might be one reason for your problems, 50 mm on a small sensor (what camera is that) 24 mm on full sized sensor is much more forgiving. Also I have never much liked the construction of the canon 50 mm F 1.4 lens, on mine the lens barrel moves a lot when shaken.

Today I also tried the 8bit board, but with the new firmware I have similar problems with the pitch axis.

So I tried to change somethin on the construction. I added two rods. It's not the best solution but it works quit good.
http://www7.pic-upload.de/17.04.14/hpmm6s564ow3.jpg
But with these rods it is no so easy to mechanically balance the system, beause there is much more weight on one side.
Does someone have an idea to fix it better or know a webshop with such components? I do not find any solution in online shops.

do not know what your trying to accomplish with all the structural mods but your wasting your time! please complete the PID tuning . your tilt is shaking not the gimbals fault it your fault! you are wrong this gimbals is fully upgrade with parts sold by me by a pro aluminum camera tray for $200+. eagle eye gimbal DYS gimbal are hobby not pro gimbals not in the same class as movixx gimbal aka famous hobby hiy fly gimbal 4mm thick carbon plate 25mm CF tube 2mm carbon fiber. If you got a fake model fiber glass copy you get what you pay for. I KNOW I SELL THEM ALL!! 32bit board are easier to set up one sensor mode!! meany people with this gimbal it was released first on the market by me proven design. to say DYS eagle eye is even close in preposterous.

http://mymobilemms.com/OFFTHEGRIDWATER.CA/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=20_22&sort=0&page=2

if you looking for an upgraded camera a they? your wrong I have put together meany of these rigs no modification is needed. you need to properly tune the gimbal making these mods are waste of time. thousands of people have gone threw this removing pitch vibration is a PID thing not structural issue.
spend your time on PiDS.

PID are camera , balance , specific never the same even with the same camera setup PID differ.
auto tuning would be nice too. no substitution for hard work but if you do not read the documentation and understand what the valued do my be issue in tuning. sorry you really can not copy some one ealses settings outright

Sorry about my posts today, I was bored and got irritated for no reason at all. I stand behind what I wrote, but I had no reason to write what I wrote, and there was no point. Sorry.

I wish there were short cuts too. some times it not PID could be bad wiring bad cable too

Set to 0 all PIDs for pitch.

Set the power at the exact amount it needs to hold the camera in all positions, no more, no less.

Then try rising a little bit P. Does it still shakes?

Try to reset PID values looking at the realtime data tab and the reaction of the pitch when moving the gimbal or touching the pitch.

You need to raise P and D as needed, no more, no less. I mean, they shouldn't be too low or too high, higher isn't always better.

The I value could be just 0.01, or whatever works for you if P and D are good.

Hi! Thanks for your answers. I will try as Octovisuals says.

To OST_RC, I use a 50mm with cropfactor it is 75mm.
And BeSteady is also able to use long lenses, like a 100mm. Here you see.


I primary will use my 50mm for testing to balance it exactly.

I'm also struggling with slightly roll vibrations/shakes/fast bouncing in extreme situations, and tried many different settings...

I'm still wondering if it's something physical or that even more tuning is needed... I'm still testing with power and the PIDs. It's really a complex matter, very time-demanding on many gimbals.

It's not easy to get the actual correct PID/power settings for every gimbal and every situation. There's just too many variables. But it's worth trying since one learn very much and can achieve the best stabilization (sort of...).

Your Pitch values look really low compared to other axis? Are the axis well balanced?

Is the gimbal strong, is the gimbal flexing when walking?

Anyway, totally impossible to say with the available information what parameters you should change and often the problems are mechanical.

my guess would be: try to get Pitch values higher, lowering power if needed. Same for other axis. 'I' on all axis is low.

Shortening the tubes as much as possible would likely help, it provides less pending momentum to the motor axis. The motor axis are probably the biggest problem. It is difficult to see from the images, but is there anything else than the motor axle supporting the Yaw and Roll axis?

Camera installation is also often problem and on this gimbal it looks it might be flexing and also many cameras flex if installed from the bottom only. See if there is anything you can do to improve the camera installation.

Where is your camera IMU installed, try different locations. On this gimbal it might work best if installed on camera, hotshot etc.

There is also other parameters than PID and Power. Try setting on Advanced tab 'Gyro LPF' to 1 or 2 and retune. It should help getting PID parameters higher. (LPF, Low Pas Filter)

There could be additional bearings outside the motor.

Hello imago10
That Gimbal is no good too much flex! so when the gimbal vibrates it looses its shape over time that why you have this issue. re balance the gimbal make sure the IMU are fat and straight re do ACC , gyro callab.