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Yaw problems
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Hey all, i am new to this forum and find it becouse i have a serious problem with my gimbal.
I buyed a DYS Eagle Eye Gimbal, the HHG5D. Handheld version. After seeing one i just had to have one. I want real quality in my video's so i looked around and find this gimbal. I just had to have it. I was warned it was difficult to build one and stuff. So expect it would be hard. But this hard... I came far, the roll and bitch dont work 100% correct but they are okey. Close enough to make a movie even if the cam is not 100% level. But okey, finetuning...
But the Yaw drives me crazy. I have the gimbal for months now and i still cant use it becouse it stays shacking and drifting all ways. I Even balanced it again, started from 0 in te Simple BGU, i updated for version 2.56 b7. Dit PID tuning and calibrated the IMU. (only use camera IMU at the moment) various times. But the problem is still not solved. Even if i just set te gimbal on the table and the yaw and handheld frame is just free in the air, it still vibrates. I tried to do it myself but i just cant find the problem myself. I hope you guys can help me to set up my gimbal correcly and solve the problems, and hopefully i can soon make the movies i dream of.
Maybe the info of my camera is important too. I use a Panasonic lumix DMC-FZ1000 camera.
Greetings,
Kevin. -
Most often the reason is the gimbal construction, vibration dampers or camera installation. The controller is likely not causing your problems, but sometimes there can be problems with IMU, how does it look on real time tab? and sometimes the controllers memory can get corrupted, erasing EEPROM helps on that. Sometimes also motors could be faulty.
Before erasing EEPROM save your settings. Make sure that you are using same GUI and FW version, and after ensuring everything is good mechanically follow the users manual step by step, without thinking, just following. Each step on basic setup is important.
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Yes, that is the realtime tab, There seems to be bad vibrations, you need to tune the gimbal.
If you have a resistance meter, you can meter the motor, each phase should have about same resistance. -
With the PID tuning i think? Well i did various times but it stays this way.
Well i have one, but how i read that out? -
same value between each 3 phase of the motor, should be between 10 to 20 ohms depending of motor.
The vibration is a problem you need to get rid off. -
So i have to put the sticks of the meter to 2 of 3 and check it. And so on till i have had any combination of checking?
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I do not know what you mean. You need to disconnect the motor from the board and measure the resistance between all the 3 pins on the motor connector. i.e make 3 measurements between any two motor pins.
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I am not acacly sure how to set up the meter, but the highest number i get is 00.9 at 200M of the ohm side. But that is the same for all motors.
The YAW motor also works normally to the others when the IMU is not connected. The motors are just powered then and do nothing as standing in place. -
I read the following in the manual:
NOTE: It is advisable to pull each motor cable through (and make at least one loop around) a ferrite ring to avoid
high frequency interference from affecting the IMU sensors and other electronic devices (both on and connected to
the board).
Is it posseble that this cousing problems? That the IMU get interference and that's why it gets shacky and drifting? -
Do you get I2C or any other errors, connect GUI to see.
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The I2C/IMU has indeed conection problems it seems. Sometimes it doesn't work at start or randomly dont work anymore.
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I was just playing with the PID numbers. And my gimbal started beeping crazy and GUI said emergancy stop for I2U errors. The errors right on the screen where just counting up, i pulled the plug at 5963 errors...
Getting kind of crazy from this... -
Now you know the problem, need to get rid of it. No use trying anything else before you ged rid of the I2C errors.
Ensure cable and connectors are ok, run IMU cable separately form other cables, use as shot IMU cable as possible and if necessary use ferrite rings on IMU/Motor wires. -
Wel normally it does crazy with no errors at all. So i am not sure if that is the problem, or just a problem. And it is hard to find the point that the errorproblem is over i think if it has nothing to do with eachother. Becouse the error problem isn't there that much does it seem.
So is it logic that these errors are connected with my problems or just a wild try? -
You need to fix the cause of the I2C problems and probably it will solve all your problems. If you have any I2C errors ever, that needs to be fixed first. If there is problems after, they will be addressed after. One thing at the time, and I2C errors is a serious issue that absolutely needs to be fixed.
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I am having the same problem and I am trying to get rid of i2c errors. How do I know, which of the 2 sensors is causing the errors?
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It is not the sensor, but the wiring. Short wiring helps, i2C wires separated from other wires helps, ferrite rings helps... Some boards/IMUs are more sensitive than others.
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I have not any I2c error since replacing original wires with shielded wires!
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Oke, i played a lot with PID tuning by hand. The auto version is like shit it seems. I finally found a movie on YouTube that explained it how PID works. And so i could put in the numbers myself en try. It worked fine. It's not 100% perfect i think, but it is oke to work with.
Sometimes i make moves that are hard to do for the gimbal though. It starts shacking then. PID tuning not optimal? or must i balance it better perhaps? I hope sombody can send me in the good direction before start to make changes and fucking up my balance of do PID tuning for hours and still dont get it right or so. -
The balance must be good to start with on all axis. If the gimbal is strong, the balance does not need to be perfect, but the better the balance is the better the result is. It does not affect that much PID tuning though, as long as it is reasonable good.
Not possible to say how good your balancing is, but balancing is commonly misunderstood. When the gimbal is balanced you can rotate handle to any position (unpowered) and put the camera to any position and it stays there. All axis must move freely though.
For PID tuning the gimbal must be solid. Most often the problem is flexible structure and no good support for axis. There is not much to do for normal user on these aspects, but sometimes it is possible to adjust the size of the gimbal. Pushing the tubes in as much as possible to make the gimbal compact helps (maintaining balance.)
Also camera installation is often a problem. It must be solid, better if supported from bottom and top, and if big lens that needs to be supported also and all loose mass like mate box is bad.
And IMU installation must be good.
When these thing are ok, there is no problems tuning the gimbal and auto tuning will work good. Sometimes filtering helps if the gimbal is not perfect, but that gets difficult.
Ps. The newest beta FW has much improved auto tuning, including filtering. It is beta.
And the final words. Too many times the primary problems are not the ones mentioned above but not well performed basic setup. IMU calibration, motor poles, inverted status They MUST be right. And it is good idea to disable all RC/follow mode for tuning, activate them when the gimbal works otherwise good.
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