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Roll Drift from zero to fully canted over time 32bit 3 axis
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It is not the most solid gimbal, and strongest motors, but maybe ok for that camera.
What Power setting are you using? I would put as much power as possible without overheating the motors. If you are already having power 255, higher voltage would be next step.
Put the battery on handle. and rebalance yaw. it makes it easier for yaw motor.
I would try installing the camera IMU with thin 2 sided tape only. The IMU is actually mechanical devise, well kind of, and sometimes the installation screws pend it ad affect the calibration.
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Roll Power 196 +35 P 83 I .11 D 53
Pitch Power 161 +21 P 78 I .09 D 33
Yaw Power 183 +20 P 12 I .02 D 20
I will increase all power. Roll and pitch were lower when I got it from factory. Yaw was a bit higher, but got quite warm. It is cooler now, so I will bring it all back up. Also this reduces battery life a lot.
It is saddening to hear that you find the gimbal and motors not good. I guess I wasted my money. The manufacturer told me it would be OK .. .the camera is not so heavy as to be in the upper limits of their specs ... I guess they made it up? It's no heavier than my wife's 5D mk2 ...
In addition to moving battery I can remove the integrated stand ... that is some more weight not so necessary. It would be better to tune this hanging from the handles anyway, rather than sitting on stand.
Important note: The IMU that you see in photos is not mechanically attached ... it is in a small cutout in the camera platform, which has a lid, secured by a screw. The IMU is held in place with only reusable grey sticky tape ... I also put a very small wad of foam earplug (you see it next to IMU housing in pix) underneath lid, to help make sure IMU is secure ...I think it is secure. No screws.
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Can I use an IMU from another gimbal as frame IMU or do they have to match?
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I think the motors look small for the size of the gimbal, but might be ok for light weight camera like you have. Over all it is more about how smoothly the motors rotate unpowered and how well the gimbal is balanced, and with weak motors that is even more important.
Also the gimbal does not need to take any fast movements if you operate the gimbal carefully as it anyway should.
The Frame IMU must be addressed as Frame IMU, see the users manual. also not all IMUs are the same, they might have different connector/pin order etc. So n sort, it is possible, but you need to know what you are doing. -
OK ... well it seems to work, especially as I got it back with both IMu's in original spot, working from what I learned with one IMU, although interesting PID's changed, as did power.
Got it working with Follow, too, as good or better than before.
However, 2 things happening ...
1. Tilt moves down. So say I write something, tilt axis pops back to level, then starts slowly moving down down down, and doesn't stop unless I write something, I think it is RC related.
2. Still need RC trip to level camera. Maybe camera crooked? It's not crooked on my other gizmos (for instance, if I level a tripod head, I can interchange my cameras and they are level.
2a. Roll trim via RC changes. (here we are back to square 1 where I was having this problem)
Normally, yes, I do operate gimbal slow and smooth. I was jerking it around in the video to show limits and problems. -
1. disable all RC related if they are not needed, If you have joystick or RC connected calibrate and add dead band.
2. did you perform follow offset.
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Thanks, I will disable RC offset (when) it is actually not needed (that is, when I find the reason that it is needed so far)
I have RC joystick ... it is calibrated. Has as much deadband as I can stomach (as well as expo)
I did "perform" follow offset, but I cannot tell that it does anything ... can you elaborate?
Used gimbal "for real" today. It was decent, mostly single shots, lasting a minutes or two of on time, and id OK, although it has a certain vibration. I will ask about that specifically.
Interesting, with no temperature calibration, it performed this well even having been calibrated in warm house, yet used outside in cold (just below freezing) for a couple hours. -
From user's manual: "OFFSET: this is a setting that allows you to properly configure the exact initial position of the gimbal. For YAW axis it allows fine adjustment of the camera heading relative to a frame heading. For PITCH and ROLL axis there is an option to calibrate offset automatically. To do this power on the system, hold frame leveled and press AUTO button. Don't forget to write setting when finished. If the camera after power on is not leveled, you need to adjust the offset setting."
I am not totally sure though if latest FW uses it and how, it is also different with encoders. -
I checked my gimbal, IMU noise is just random, no big pumps like you have here https://www.flickr.com/photos/48614270@N08/sets/72157661207095934/
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Hi thanks Garug, yes I did read that in the manual, and yes I did perform it just like that. Still need to use RC Offset though. It warns to hold frame precisely leveled, which I did, but it always wants to go to one side. I told it to go to one side a little to see if it was just confused, but that didnt' work (and was a sloppy way to fix the cant) so I just use RC offset.
My IMU bumps are no longer like that ... I wonder if the soldering job I did on the Japan Solderless Terminal connector fixed it? -
Did you figure out about this issue or did you send back the gimbal to the manufacturer?
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Gave up on these things a long time ago. If Basecam is in the description, I avoid that gimbal like the plague.
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