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Need some help with my first Red Gimbal
  • Hello All!
    I'm very anxious and exited to enter the world of the 3 axis gimbal! But before doing it, I like to do a lot of research, and I would appreciate if you could help me with some issues.

    First:
    I need to buy a carbon fiber gimbal frames that holds hell the Red Scarlet. I saw a bunch on ebay that it states to hold the Red epic, but when I look at the picture is the same one of the DSLR's. Is there a model that is more suitable for the Red? I found the one they are selling at the famoushobby very nice, but they only sell it with the motors and I want to but the motors separately. So, my question is, where could I buy the gimbal for red (with ou the motors) for a good price?

    Second:
    Talking about the motors. I found an IPower 8028-90T that some places say it could support a camera until 6K. I looked on the forums and I never saw anyone talking about that. Would that be a good option? If i put 2 motors for pitch (one on each side of the camera) would that make the gimbal capable of supporting more weight? Is it possible to do it? The strongest motor should go for the pitch right? Or should I use the same motor for the roll and Yaw also?

    Third:
    Does it make sense to build the gimbal with a second sensor? Does it really make the stabilization better?

    Forth and last:
    Batteries: if I'm using these motors, should I go for a S6? Would a s5 or S4 hold it? What would be a good brand?

    I know that it is a lot of question, sorry. But I would appreciate if you guys could help me with that.

    Thank you so much,

    MB
  • 2. Inertia is even more important factor than weight. A long lens with heavy ND filter, camera hood etc. at the end has much inertia.

    The best benefice of using two motors on pitch is that it would balance the roll nicely, especially with Red Scarlet/Epic as it is narrow and symmetrical. But using two motors is not as straight forward as it might sound. they need to run synchronously and the board need to be able to handle the lower resistance. Could be better just simply using balancing weight or a dummy motor on the other side.

    Normally the yaw would be needing most power, then roll and pitch. If a long objective is used it could be that pitch needs more power than roll, but normally roll needs more power. It is all about weight and inertia of the weight. The more inertia the moving axis has, the more power it needs. Using same motor on all axis works well, especially with the bigger cameras.

    3. The 32 bit boards have had some problems, but they are the future and I am sure the problems are soon fixed. They are the only ones supporting two IMUs. Two IMUs should make the recovery of lost control much better and operating in other positions than the gimbal flat much more reliable. I would start with 32 bit board and one IMU. Alter that is working well, adding the second IMU.

    4. The 3S, 4S or 5S depends much of the motors used and the power needed. I would start with 4S.

  • do not buy from ebay they sell fake Carbon fiber knockoff gimbals seem cheaper but you will pay for kt in quality and functionality! I carry all the PRO gimbal for RED & more full PKG with 32bit Alexmos controller! Gimbal with GB85 Tiger motors are the best will stabilize all the film cameras on the market. batterys not matter will work on 3S to 6S with 32bit board 3S is fine. 2 pitch or one your choice really 2 pitch good for multiple cameras?
    http://brushlessgimbal.ca/

  • Thanks for the comments, guys!

    Garug, you say that yo use two motors they must been synchronized and the board needs to be able to handle lower resistance, what does it means? Does this synchronization needs to happen every time I turn on the gimbal? Also, you mention that the 32bit board have some issues, what do you mean by that? Do you think this issues will be solved by a firmware upgrade or is a hardware problem and I will have to buy another board soon.

    Aopen3434, I saw your website! You have some great stuff!! You mention the motor GB85-T, I looked it you and some websites mention that it could hold 6kg as well. Does it means that I can load up to 6k on the camera or do I have to consider the weight of the gimbal as well?

    Thanks again for all the help and support,
    MB
  • The motor synchronisation is one time job during the installation. The motors have poles and those poles need to be synchronised, i.e. motors installed so that both motors are in same phase. Should not be too difficult if the gimbal allows this mechanical adjustment.

    The motors will be electrically installed in parallel so the resulting resistance will be 1/2 of the resistance of one motor. If low resistance motors are used this could be a problem, i.e cause over heating of the board.

    Many has reported tuning problems with 32 bit boards, but I think that is more the FW 2.4 being different on tuning than FW 2.3. Many have also reported problems tuning the 8 bit board with FW 2.4, for me it has been working well (I do not have 32 bit board yet for the following reason). There has been also problems installing the two IMUs, (this is an electrical HW problem causing I2C errors). Flyduino should have a updated second IMU available soon to solve this problem. These problems should not require updating the board.
  • the GB85 gimbal should be able to stabalize 15lb + witch includes all the pro cameras on the market including RED Epic with Grip plus battery and monitor. 32 bit tuning with one sensor is easy with 2 sensors not so much I wonder why?? 2 motors on tilt is good for a rental or multiple cameras sinking poles is easy . still hit an miss with second IMU can tun the gimbal upside down and it works very well and sideways like DJI demo so I am happy with one sensor on 32bit boards.