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3-Axis Handheld DSLR Gimbal parts list advice.
  • matt_555
    Hello,

    I would just like to say Hi, my name is Matthew and I am based in the UK. I would like to thank every for all the useful advice on this forum I have already read through so far.

    I am looking to build a 3 axis hand-held gimbal to carry DSLR for personal use. I have done some reading and watched some videos on tuning etc... and it seems the official BASECAM 32bit controller is the way forward. The DSLR I currently use is a Nikon D5100 normally with 35mm prime, which weighs in around 700grams total. Although I may look to upgrade to something full frame and a little heavier in the future so I will be thinking about that too when I build this gimbal.

    Parts I was looking at;

    Frame; Eagle Eye carbon frame (seems a few people use this, I couldnt find a better cheaper alternative. If anyone knows one please let me know!)

    Motors; Ipower 5208H-200T x 2 for pitch and roll, 6208H-150T for YAW with machined encoder plates. I read Yaw motors need to be more powerful? Can anyone confirm if this will be powerful enough for my camera? My thoughts on the motors are; will they be too thick (height wise) with the encoder plates fitted to fit in the motor cages on the eagle eye frame? Any ideas?

    I have realised that with encoders on these motors you can not do a 360 rotation, however I do not think I will ever need to complete a 360 degree rotation so I dont think that will be an issue. I am guessing its worth having the encoders as the gimbal operates better.

    Controller; I will be ordering the kit simple32 bit kit from BASECAM with 2 IMU's and will be paying for the additional firmware for the encoders :)

    Battery; 3/4s lipo. Thumb controller.

    I think that should pretty much cover it. If anyone can suggest better motors/frame combo for my sort of camera that would be great. Like I said I am very new to this but I am looking to learn and get this Gimbal put together quickly :)

    Thanks for your time and any help you can give me is greatly appreciated!

    Thanks,

    Matt
  • Garug
    With encoders you need only one IMU installed, but it is good to have a spare IMU in case needed.

    Encoders provide more power when the voltage is high enough, I recommend 4S for that setup. Encoders also provide less power consumption and better recovery/response after disturbance, no skipping the motor steps. You need to have accurate installation for the encoders and it is more wires, if you can manage that the encoders are very good choice.

    Those motors should provide ok power, especially with encoders.

    The frame I can not commend, it is much different design I am using http://www.levitezer.com/styled-2/blog-2/files/d5a060e5bfd436e512feef2ff46a2612-27.html a easy to travel with, provides free access to camera controls, battery and memory card, solid and compact design.

    My advise is to build the gimbal as compact as possible for the camera and lenses you will be using it with. A solid gimbal performs much better.
  • AOPEN3434AOPEN3434
    hello here GH4 gimbals parts you may be interested in for you DYI gimbal build

    BGC electronics kits are available on sale!
    http://mymobilemms.com/OFFTHEGRIDWATER.CA/BRUSHLESS-GIMBALS/Gimbal-Brushless-Motor/AlexMos-32-BIT-BGC-Motor-GBM5208-With-Encoder-Kit-Iflight-rc

    http://mymobilemms.com/OFFTHEGRIDWATER.CA/BRUSHLESS-GIMBALS/Gimbal-Brushless-Motor/Tiny-Pro-32Bit-Alexmos-BGC-With-3Motor-With-Built-In-Encoder-Kit

    2 axis just add yaw cage and motor 5108-120T up to 8LB :
    http://mymobilemms.com/OFFTHEGRIDWATER.CA/BRUSHLESS-GIMBAL-PTZ/Digital-SLR/CINESTAR-2-Axis-Brushless-GIMBAL-System-KIT

    2 axis just add yaw cage and motor IFLIGHT 5208 up to 10 lb:
    http://mymobilemms.com/OFFTHEGRIDWATER.CA/BRUSHLESS-GIMBAL-PTZ/Digital-SLR/CINESTAR-New-2-Axis-Brushless-GIMBAL-System-KIT
    Frame only:
    http://mymobilemms.com/OFFTHEGRIDWATER.CA/BRUSHLESS-GIMBAL-PTZ/Digital-SLR/3-Axis-Brushless-GIMBAL-Steadicam-System-Assembly-Required

    RTF :
    http://mymobilemms.com/OFFTHEGRIDWATER.CA/Cinematography-UAS-Rentals/SteadyGim6-PLUS-Camera-Stabilizer
  • matt_555
    Hello Garug and AOPEN3434,

    Thank you for your posts and the helpful links.

    The main reason I looked at eagle eye frame is because I could get one cheap and it seems others have used it with moederate success. I understand that it might not be quiet as good as a better frame however I dont want to spend so much money yet. I would like to try it myself first too see if I can get it working then maybe upgrade frame and everything later over time.

    Garug I have emailed LeVitezer and have asked for some info regarding there gimbals and prices and what they offer so I will see what they come back with! Thanks for the link!

    I will post my progress when I have some parts! I am sure I will have some questions to ask!

    Regards,

    Matt
  • matt_555
    Bit of an update, my ipower motors fitted with encoders have arrived and my DYS gimbal frame is due to arrived Thrusday.

    I ordered the Simple 32bit alexmos from the site and then realised that maybe I should have ordered the new Extended version which seems to accept encoders better and comes with the firmware. Apparently the new extended version is due in store on 16th May 2016.

    I am hoping that Basecam will swap my order to the extended one, as that seems like the one I need.

    Has anyone encountered problems running encoder cables next to motor cables regarding interference, I read that running the imu cable next to the motor cable can cause problems!

    Thanks for the advice,

    Matt
  • matt_555
    Hello,

    I have decided that as I will not likely use my hand held gimbal with rc I may as well keep the current 32bit simlplebgc controller I have.

    I have a question about wires and wiring?

    What is the best thickness wires for motor wires and encoder wires?

    I am going to build my own cables to the correct lengths as I have the crimp tool and some connectors.

    Is it best to use twisted wire (like in audio for interfernce rejection) or is it best to just use un-twisted normal wires.

    If anyone out there knows and is willing to share their knowledge that would be great!

    Thanks,

    Matt


  • Garug
    Use mechanical strength, flexibility and what your connectors require to define the cables to be used. Motor wires need to tolerate only 1.5 A so almost any cable can do that, the data cables need no current tolerance. Power cables, select cable that can take 5A

    Run I2C and Encoder cables separately from other cables.

    Keep cables as short as possible.

    Depends of your system, especially cable length and board if you need protected cables, ferrite rings etc.

    Best way is just test before you use too much time for building fine looking cable.
  • matt_555
    Hello Garug, thanks for the info : )

    Running the encorder wires seperate from the motor wires would be pretty difficult. I could run 1 wire inside the carbon tubes and then 1 wire outside the tube, but the wires will be running in the same direction so by nature they will be fairly close. I guess I will just have to test it to see if its ok or if I get any errors.

    I am making some 3mm spacers for the DYS frame I have because the motors with the encorders are 6mm thicker than a standard 5208/6208 motor and therefore the cages (Yaw+Roll) need to be spaced out a little to take the thicker motors. I already realised I would need to do this so just a case of making the spacers and spacing it out.

    I got my DYS Eagle eye for pretty cheap and thought there would be parts missing etc.. but it seems like its all there after I loosely put it all together : )

    Hopefully I will have it all together by next week sometime and tested I will report back!

    Thanks,

    Matt
  • matt_555
    Quick Update, I returned my controller for the new extended version meaning im probably one of the first to get and use the new version of the board.

    I wanted a controller case, so I have had to adapt a 32bit simple case to fit the new extended board which meant filing out and drilling the case so that all the additional connections of the extended board fit. I re-sprayed the case black to tidy it up and it works/looks very neat!

    I bought some plastic abs 3mm spacers to accomodate the additional 6mm of encoders that my motors have. Works perfectly, I also love the DYS Eagle Eye gimbal frame design. It has bearings in the motor cages which takes the whole weight of the camera so the weight isnt directly on the motor bearings... very cleaver design in my opinion.

    I have had to make loads of alterations to accomodate the encoders but it will be worth it. Further anyone fitting the iflight ecoders directly to the motors is making a mistake. They restrict the motor which will not move as freely if you fit them directly due to 2 reasons, the first because the surface of the encoder bracket is not flat and warps/pulls on the motor when you bolt it down (try putting one on a flat surface and watch it rock), secondly the glue/encoder they put on the pins of the encoder touches the magnet in the motor and restricts its movement. I have come up with a solution to both these problems but wont know if it works until I test it. Atleast my motors turn without friction... LOL

    I'll try get some pictures and videos up once I have turned it on and got it working!

    Thanks,

    Matt
  • matt_555
    Hello,

    I tested my DYS Eagle Eye 3 axis gimbal today with 1 click camera and frame (built in) IMU calibration. My board is version 3.6 with encoders (New Extended board) and I am using GUI + Firmware 2.59b1 as thats what came pre installed on my board from basecam.

    I am running 3 x 5208 iflight, 14 pole, enclosed motors on a DYS frame. I have enconders built into the setup but I do not have them wired up currently as I wanted to get it somewhere near to working before using them also.

    I am running a 3s lipo.

    So I have got the gimbal to work roughly and its pretty stable :) I shot some quick footage, already its miles better than my hand-held steadicam so im pleased, however I feel I can get it better. I have 0 l2C errors, I did not use ferrite rings on motor wires it seems i did not need them.

    I think my ROLL and especially the YAW motor are under-powered in this current setup. The D value required for ROLL and YAW is 255 (max) this seems very high compared with other peoples settings the P value is around 20.

    Despite the ROLL D being 255 it actually does not oscillate much in the monitoring tab so Im guessing my ROLL motor is almost powerful enough, however the YAW motor oscillates for quite a while before coming to rest after the swing caused by PID tuning.

    When watching the monitoring, the YAW motor swings both ways fine but oscillates before coming to rest where-as with PITCH and ROLL it swings both ways then almost comes to instant rest.

    If I went to a 4s lipo would that help or not? Would the encoders help my situation? Maybe I can upload a video would that help?

    Thanks for the help guys really appreciate it!!! Also I would like to thank Garug for the videos on Gimbal setup they were very very helpful when I was setting my gimbal up!!!!

    Regards,

    Matt
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